Reptile6 products
Food, supplements, and enclosure supplies for lizards, snakes, and turtles.
Reptile keeping in Australia is a specialised corner of pet ownership, partly because many native reptiles require a licence to keep and partly because the husbandry requirements are more demanding than most mammalian pets. This category covers reptile food — live feeder insects, frozen rodents, pellets for turtles and bearded dragons, freeze-dried options — alongside calcium and vitamin supplements that are essential to preventing metabolic bone disease. Brands like Vetafarm, Pisces Enterprises, and Nutrafin lead the Australian reptile shelf.
Nutrafiin
Nutrafin Turtle Pellets With Gammarus Shrimp
$6.99
Pisces Enterprises
Pisces Freeze Dried Crickets For Reptiles
$13.99
$18.25Save up to $4.26
$399.71/kg
MAC
Mac Mite Spray
$25.99
Pisces Enterprises
Pisces Freeze Dried Omnivore Mix
$19.99
$28.00Save up to $8.01
$199.90/kg
Pisces Enterprises
Pisces Food Topper Mix For Lizards
$15.99
$355.33/kg
Pisces Enterprises
Pisces Enterprises Dried Calendula Flowers
$15.99
Reptile diets vary enormously by species. Bearded dragons and blue-tongue lizards are omnivorous and need a mix of live insects (crickets, woodies), vegetables, and commercial pellets. Most pythons and other Australian snakes eat frozen-thawed rodents exclusively — feeder mice for small snakes, rats for adults. Turtles are typically omnivorous and eat commercial pellets supplemented with fresh greens and occasional freeze-dried shrimp or krill. Geckos often prefer live insects and commercial gecko diets. Calcium dusting with D3 for insectivores is essential — reptiles on unsupplemented diets develop metabolic bone disease, one of the most common and most preventable illnesses in captive reptiles.
Australian reptile keeping is heavily regulated. Native reptiles — including common pet species like bearded dragons, blue-tongues, and most Australian pythons — require a state-issued reptile licence to keep legally, and the licence category determines which species you're allowed. Non-native reptiles are generally prohibited as pets in Australia, which is why you won't find leopard geckos, corn snakes, or red-eared sliders on local retail shelves. Always check the current licensing requirements for your state before buying a reptile or reptile supplies.
How to choose
Start with the species, because reptile husbandry is highly species-specific. For bearded dragons and blue-tongues, you need a mix of live insects, vegetables, and a commercial omnivore pellet — plus calcium with D3 dusting on insects several times a week. For snakes, frozen-thawed rodents are the primary diet, sized to match the snake's body width and fed at species-appropriate intervals. For turtles, commercial turtle pellets with fresh greens and occasional freeze-dried shrimp work for most species. Beyond food, reptiles need appropriate heat and UVB lighting — metabolic bone disease from inadequate UVB is the most common avoidable cause of illness in captive lizards. Live insect feeders like crickets, woodies, and mealworms should be gut-loaded for 24 hours before feeding to pass on nutrients. Always verify that your species is legal to keep in your state and that your licence covers it.
Key considerations
Species drives everything
Reptile diets and housing are highly species-specific. Never generalise from one species' needs to another.
Calcium with D3 is essential
Insectivorous reptiles need calcium with D3 dusting. Metabolic bone disease from deficiency is common and preventable.
Licensing matters in Australia
Native reptiles need a state licence. Check your licence category before buying any reptile or major supplies.
Gut-load feeder insects
Crickets and woodies should be fed nutritious food 24 hours before being given to the reptile, passing on nutrients.
UVB lighting isn't optional
Most lizards need UVB to metabolise calcium. Inadequate lighting causes metabolic bone disease even with supplementation.
Frequently asked
Can I keep a reptile without a licence in Australia?+
No, for most native species. All Australian states and territories require a reptile keeper's licence for native species including bearded dragons, blue-tongues, pythons, and turtles. The licence has different categories allowing different species, and requirements differ by state. Non-native reptiles are generally prohibited. Check your state wildlife authority's current requirements before getting a reptile.
What do bearded dragons eat?+
Bearded dragons are omnivorous — about 70% plant matter (leafy greens, vegetables) and 30% protein (live insects like crickets, woodies, black soldier fly larvae) for adults, with the ratio reversed for juveniles. Commercial bearded dragon pellets can supplement but shouldn't replace fresh food entirely. Dust insects with calcium-and-D3 powder several times a week.
How do I feed a pet snake?+
Most captive snakes in Australia eat frozen-thawed rodents exclusively — feeder mice for small snakes, rats for larger pythons. Size the prey to the snake's body width (no larger than the widest point), thaw completely in the fridge before feeding, and feed at species-appropriate intervals — weekly for juveniles, every 2-4 weeks for adult pythons.
Do I need UVB lighting for my reptile?+
Most lizards and turtles need UVB to metabolise calcium and prevent metabolic bone disease. Snakes typically don't — they get vitamin D from whole prey. Get species-specific advice on UVB requirements because the wrong tube strength or distance from the basking spot defeats the purpose. UVB tubes need replacement every 6-12 months even if they still light up.
What are feeder insects and how do I use them?+
Feeder insects — crickets, woodies (wood cockroaches), mealworms, black soldier fly larvae — are live insects bred as reptile food. 'Gut-loading' means feeding the insects a nutritious diet for 24 hours before offering them to the reptile, passing the nutrition on. Dust with calcium-and-D3 powder before feeding for insectivorous species.